This DIY greenhouse is easy to build and would save you a lot of money over buying a kit.
Building a greenhouse may seem like a daunting task, but with the right tools and materials, it can be a simple and rewarding DIY project. The first step in building a greenhouse is constructing the floor. This can be done using pressure-treated wood, which is durable and can withstand outdoor elements. It’s important to crown the floor joists to ensure that the board settles into the curve over time.
Once the floor is constructed, the next step is to square the frame. This can be done by pulling two diagonals from corner to corner and ensuring that the numbers match. After the frame is squared, the decking can be installed. It’s recommended to use high-quality synthetic material to ensure durability, especially if the greenhouse will be exposed to the elements. The decking can be secured using stainless steel screws with reverse threads to pull down the material as it’s secured to the framing.
Key Takeaways
- The first step in building a greenhouse is constructing the floor using pressure-treated wood and crowning the floor joists.
- Squaring the frame is important to ensure that the structure is stable, and high-quality synthetic material is recommended for the decking to ensure durability.
Building the Floor
In this video, the speaker is building a greenhouse and starts by constructing the floor. The speaker uses pressure-treated wood for the floor joists since it will be close to the ground and outside. To ensure the floor joists are properly constructed, the speaker crowns them by placing the hump up so that it settles over time.
The speaker uses a battery-operated nailer to secure the floor joists, but screws can also be used. The general rule of thumb for determining the amount of hardware needed per material is to divide the material by two. In this case, since the speaker is using a two by six, they use three per joint.
Before putting on the decking, the speaker squares up the frame by pulling two diagonals from corner to corner. Once the numbers match, the frame is square. The speaker then applies the decking, using high-end synthetic material that has been left outside for three years. To clean the boards, the speaker uses a power washer, making use of the steel tool’s convenience and storage features.
The speaker uses stainless steel screws to secure the decking, ensuring they hold up against the outside elements. The screws also have reverse threads at the head, which pulls down the material as it is secured to the framing.
Next, the speaker builds out the trusses and stud walls in one go, using the floor as a jig setup. The speaker secures two blossoms to the bottom side of one corner and another corner, and then secures one block to about three-quarters of the way up on the side. The speaker then takes the truss shapes and secures the top of the truss to the bottom of the truss using the elongated ones and the peak one to go up at the top.
The speaker uses a CNC to cut out the truss shapes, but free templates with the plans are available for those who want to use a bandsaw. To ensure the trusses are centered, the speaker pulls a tape measure and finds the center, which is three feet in this case. The speaker then eyeballs the center line and ensures it lines up with the center mark.
The speaker builds the Gable ends, which are the two outside most trusses, identical to the other trusses. However, the gussets only go on the inside face, and they have a collared tie. The speaker places one collar tie inside the truss itself, and the bottom point lines up to the top of the gusset. The speaker then places a top collar tie on top of it.
The greenhouse needs ventilation, so the speaker creates a vent framing on the second Gable in. The speaker uses simple cutoffs to create jack studs and lays the center one in horizontally. Once it is secure, the speaker puts in two vents in the cubby holes created.
To install the trusses, the speaker starts by setting the bottom of each one in with a few toenails. The speaker then plumbs and connects with a screw to the diagonal. The speaker installs these alone, but it is quicker with a friend’s help.
Finally, the speaker adds in the studs for the back and front walls. These are toenailed at the bottom and along the top. The speaker uses exterior grade plywood for the siding and paints it black to make it disappear under the cedar. The speaker nails the bottom first and then plumbs the top to tack it in place.
Squaring the Frame
In this step of building a greenhouse, the speaker begins by building the floor using pressure-treated wood. They emphasize the importance of crowning the floor joists to ensure that the board settles into the curve over time. The speaker recommends using screws or a battery-operated nailer to secure the floor joists to the frame. They suggest dividing the material by two to determine how much hardware to use when nailing or screwing.
Once the floor is built, the speaker moves on to squaring the frame. They demonstrate a simple way to square the frame by pulling two diagonals from corner to corner and adjusting until the numbers match. The speaker places a diagonal at least two different points to hold the square in place. They then proceed to apply the decking.
The speaker mentions that they are using high-end synthetic material for the decking, although they typically would not for something like a greenhouse. They power wash the boards before securing them to the framing using stainless steel screws. The speaker notes that the reverse threads at the head of the screws will pull down the material, ensuring a secure hold.
The next step is to build out the trusses. The speaker uses their floor as a jig setup to build the stud walls with the truss in one go. They secure the top of the truss to the bottom of the truss using elongated shapes and a peak shape at the very top. The speaker recommends finding the center of the truss and eyeballing it to ensure it lines up with the center mark.
The speaker then builds the gable ends, which are identical except for the gussets only going on the inside face. They place a collar tie inside the truss itself and secure it to the top of the gusset. They also place a top collar tie on top of it. The speaker adds a vent framing to one of the gable ends for ventilation.
After adding the studs for the back and front walls, the speaker proceeds to add exterior grade plywood siding. They paint it black to make it disappear once cedar is added over it. The speaker nails the bottom first and then plumbs the top before securing it with screws. They also mark the top two-foot center before adding the board.
Overall, the speaker demonstrates how to square the frame of a greenhouse using simple techniques and high-quality materials.
Decking Installation
The next step in building a greenhouse is to install the decking. Before doing so, it is important to square up the frame by pulling two diagonals from corner to corner. Once the numbers match, the frame is square and ready for the decking.
The speaker in the video used high-end synthetic material for the decking, but noted that normally he would not use such material for a greenhouse. He power washed the boards before installation, but noted that he typically would not use a power washer for such a simple job.
For screws, the speaker used stainless steel to ensure they hold up in the outside elements and withstand getting wet. He used reverse threads up at the head of the screws, which pulls down the material as it is secured to the framing.
Overall, the decking installation process is straightforward and can be completed using various materials. It is important to ensure the frame is squared up before installing the decking and to use appropriate hardware to ensure durability.
Building the Trusses
The next step in building the greenhouse is to construct the trusses. The speaker uses the floor as a jig setup to build the trusses and stud walls in one go. The trusses are made up of two bottom blocks, two elongated blocks, and one peak block. The speaker secures the left and right blocks before securing the top block. To ensure that the trusses are square, the speaker measures six feet across and finds the center at three feet. The trusses are then flipped over and gussets are placed on the backside. The Gable ends are built identically except that the gussets only go on the inside face, and they have a collared tie. The second Gable end has a vent framing, and the speaker places a cross member and two simple cutoffs to create cubby holes for the vents. The speaker uses a toe nailing technique to secure the trusses in place and adds framing members for the back and front walls. The exterior grade plywood is used for siding, and the speaker nails the bottom first before plumbing the top and securing it in place.
Creating the Gable Ends
The next step in building a greenhouse is to create the gable ends. This involves building out the trusses and stud walls in one go. The speaker in the video uses the floor as a jig setup, taking two blocks and securing them to the bottom side of the corners and one block to the side. By slipping the truss into the jig, the platform is utilized as a jig. The speaker secures the top of the truss to the bottom of the truss using elongated blocks and the peak block to go up at the top.
The gable ends are built identical, except the gussets only go on the inside face. They also have a collared tie, with one collar tie placed inside the truss itself and the bottom point lined up to the top of the gusset. The speaker places a top collar tie on top of it. The second gable end only has one vent framing, which is created by taking one cross member and attaching it. Simple cutoffs are used to lay the center one in horizontally, and once it’s all secure, the speaker is able to put in the two vents in the cubby holes created.
The speaker provides a tip for toe nailing, which is to start in the exit and angle the drill bit up and then go out. The speaker adds a member to ensure the diagonal is plum and then adds studs to the framing for the back and front walls. The speaker uses an exterior grade plywood for siding, which is painted black before adding cedar over it. The speaker nails the bottom first and then plumbs the top before tacking it in place.
Overall, creating the gable ends involves building out the trusses and stud walls in one go, securing the top and bottom of the truss with elongated and peak blocks, and adding a collar tie. The gable ends are built identical, with one having a vent framing, and the siding is done using an exterior grade plywood painted black before adding cedar over it.
Ventilation Installation
In order to ensure proper ventilation for the greenhouse, the builder has included a vent framing on the second gable end. This vent framing is created by attaching one cross member to the gable end and then laying a center jack stud horizontally. Once the jack stud is secured, two vents can be installed in the cubby holes created by the framing.
Toenailing is used to secure the framing members in place. The builder recommends starting with the drill bit going straight and then angling it up and out to ensure the nail comes out where desired. Once the bottom of each framing member is secured with toenails, the builder plumbs the framing and connects it with screws to the diagonal.
To capture the diagonal’s low position on one truss and ensure it is plumbed, the builder adds a horizontal brace. This captures the diagonal and ensures that the truss is plumbed. The same process is repeated for the rest of the trusses.
The next step is to add studs for the framing of the back and front walls. The back wall framing is added to provide a surface for the siding. The front wall framing includes a 30-inch door, which can be adjusted to a different width if desired.
For the siding, the builder uses exterior grade plywood painted black. This is done to make the plywood disappear once the cedar is added. The siding is attached using nails and screws, starting with the bottom and then pluming the top before securing it in place.
Truss Installation
The next step in building a greenhouse is to install the trusses. The speaker in the video demonstrates how to build the stud walls with the trusses in one go, using the floor as a jig setup.
To build the trusses, the speaker takes two blossoms and secures them to the bottom side of one corner and the opposite corner, then takes one block and secures it about three-quarters of the way up on one side. The truss is then slipped onto the jig, utilizing the platform as a jig.
The speaker secures both the left and right elongated shapes to the top and bottom of the truss before securing the peak one at the very top. Once both trusses are built, the speaker flips them over and places gussets on the backside.
The Gable ends, which are the two outside most trusses, are built identical except the gussets only go on the inside face. They also have a collared tie, with one collar tie inside of the truss itself and the bottom point lined up to the top of the gusset. The speaker places a top collar tie on top of it.
For ventilation, the second Gable in only has one vent framing, which is created by taking one cross member and attaching it in the center. The speaker then lays one horizontal jack stud in and secures it, creating two cubby holes on the bottom side.
The speaker offers a tip for toenailing, suggesting starting in the exit and angling up to ensure the nail comes out where desired. After setting the bottom of each truss in with a few toenails, the speaker plummets and connects with a screw to the diagonal.
Next, the speaker adds in the studs for the framing of the back and front walls. The back framing members are used for the siding, while the front framing creates the doorway. The siding is made of exterior grade plywood, painted black so that it will disappear behind the Cedar that will be installed over it.
The speaker nails the bottom of the siding first, tacking it in place, and then comes back with screws. By nailing the bottom first, the speaker can plumb the top and tack it in place. Before installing the board, the speaker marks the top two-foot center.
Adding the Studs
After completing the trusses, the next step in building a greenhouse is to add the studs for the back and front walls. These framing members will provide support for the siding and create the doorway.
For the back wall, the studs are attached in the same manner as the trusses, with toenails at the bottom and top. The front wall includes a 30-inch doorway, but this can be adjusted to a different width if desired.
To create the siding, exterior-grade plywood is used, painted black to help it blend in once cedar is added. The bottom of the siding is nailed in place first to provide stability, followed by screws along the top. This approach allows for adjustment of the top to ensure it is plumb before securing it in place.
Before adding the siding, the top two-foot center is marked to help with alignment. Once the siding is in place, the next step will be to add cedar to further protect the structure from the elements.
Siding Installation
The next step in building a greenhouse is installing the siding. The speaker in the video used exterior grade plywood, which was painted black to make it less visible once the cedar siding is installed.
To begin, the speaker nailed the bottom of the plywood in place and then plumb the top before securing it with screws. They also marked the top two-foot center before installing the plywood to ensure proper alignment.
Once the plywood is installed, the speaker moved on to building the framing for the back and front walls. They used pressure-treated wood and toenailed it in place at the bottom and top. This framing will provide support for the siding and the doorway.
Overall, installing the siding and framing is an essential step in building a greenhouse or any other movable building. It provides protection from the elements and helps to create a sturdy structure.
Finishing Touches
After completing the framing and decking of the greenhouse, the next step is to build out the trusses and stud walls. The speaker in the video uses the floor as a jig setup to secure the bottom and top of the truss using elongated and peak blocks. The trusses are built identical except for the gable ends, which have gussets only on the inside face and a collared tie at the bottom point lined up to the top of the gusset.
To provide ventilation, the second gable in has a vent framing where the speaker takes one cross member and attaches it to the center. Simple cutoffs are then laid horizontally, securing the two vents in the cubby holes created. The speaker also shares a tip for toe-nailing, starting in the exit and angling up to ensure that the nail is centered on the 2×4.
After setting the bottom of each stud wall in with a few toenails, the speaker plummets and connects with a screw to the diagonal. The studs serve as framing members for the back and front walls, where the back wall provides support for the siding. The speaker uses an exterior-grade plywood for the siding, painting it black to make it disappear once the cedar is applied. The siding is tacked in place with nails at the bottom and then screwed in place at the top.
With the trusses, stud walls, and siding complete, the greenhouse is now ready for its final touches.